13 May 2011

Italy, Tuscany, La Foce, Chiarentana

Tiramisu on your pillow...

We always wanted to go to Tuscany. But when it was just the two of us, we always favoured the far and adventurious destinations... We still can 'do' Tuscany as a family, we said many times. So as soon as our little son arrived, we booked a holiday to Tuscany. And in specific to La Foce. I had read about this place years ago in a magazine and was struck by the serenity and beauty of the property and surroundings.


La Foce is a family owned estate in the Southern part of Tuscany overlooking Val d' Orcia. It has an interesting and fascinating history. Antonio and Iris Origo, an Italian/ American couple, bought the property in the 1920's with a dream and dedication to bring progress and social change to this area. Today the estate with several houses, woods, cultivated fields and olive groves is run by the Origo daughters, Benedetta and Donata. All the stories about the origins of La Foce, the construction and renovation of the different buildings, the family, the war period can be read in the book 'La Foce: A Garden and Landscape in Tuscany (Penn Studies in Landscape Architecture)' by Benedetta Origo http://www.amazon.com/Foce-Landscape-Tuscany-Studies-Architecture/dp/0812235932.

We stayed for two weeks in Bersagliere, one of the tastefully decorated apartments in Chiarentana, a fortified farmhouse. Donata lives there as well and she organizes a drink for visitors so now and then where stories are shared while enjoying the sunset from the terrace.
Chiarentana is beautifully located on a hill overlooking the valley. Most memorable for me are the typical Tuscany view of a beautiful curved road with cypresses (this road actually features in one of the opening scenes of the movie 'Gladiator'!), the swimming pool and tennis court overlooking the olive grove and the enormous tree in the middle of the courtyard where dinners are being served (weather permitting). And not to forget: Eira, the English cook, who organizes cooking lessons and serves dinner three evenings at Chiarentana. She was so nice and gave a real personal touch to our stay. When we arrived (tired after a long journey) she welcomed us at our appartment with a fantastic meal and homemade tiramisu. The best tiramisu I have ever tasted!

For children there is an enormous garden to play and a small and simple playground. Things to consider are: La Foce is quite desolated and dinner is only served at the estate three times a week, we like to cook for ourselves, but if you want to visit nice restaurants you have to take the car. And... not all apartments have a private terrace or direct access to the garden. We used the babyphone when going to the swimming pool or when having dinner in the garden.   
Pictures of the garden tour of La Villa
La Foce is a great base to explore the south of Tuscany (Florence, Siena, Arezzo, Perugia, Assisi, Orvieto, Pienza, Montepulciano, Monticchiello and Montalcino can all be visited as daytrip). But you do not have to go far... practise some yoga in the garden, enjoy the lovely countryside of La Foce by feet, swim, play a game of tennis, learn how to make the perfect pasta and risotto and definitively do not forget the garden tour of La Villa, the main building of La Foce. It's beautiful and will give you a bit of an insight in the life and love of Iris Origo. 

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